I though Xmas would be the hardest time for being homesick, but considering Christmas is not really a big deal here, the weather being hotter than Hades, and I'll still be with family since I'm traveling to Azove to spend it with my host famiy. Together, all of these things make it a little easier not to be homesick.

As I said, Christmas isn't really a big deal here. It's a holiday for kids, for Santa Clause to give gifts but kids really aren't the center of the money spending so it ends up not being a big deal. Kids are the last priority in everything. People prioritize them in the sense that a woman is not a woman if she isn't a mother. And men marry women so that they can have children. It's really not for the relationship. They can't believe my dad married Andrea, took financial responsibility over her four children and she's not even going to give him any children. But beyond that, they do not coddle their children or give them the light of day. Kids observe and work and work more and are pushed aside until they become adults. Then they are treated like humans. They are rarely dressed, always dirty and definitely attention starved. So, even Catholics don't make Christmas a big deal. Its interesting how the western influence on the Santa Clause side seemed to penetrate their culture, but the real reason for the celebration is almost tossed aside with a simple midnight mass and a lets move on with our lives. So, New Year's is the big celebration. People kill goats and chickens, prepare food all day, eat, drink, and dance all night. I've been designated as the host (cause my house is ridiculously huge in comparison) and everyone else brings the food and drinks. I just exist and provide the place for everyone to hang out. Easy enough. I'll barely have to clean cement floors and walls can't be too tough to take care of, don't you think?

So I hope everyone has gathered in the holiday spirit, you are all gathering with family and sparing some time for friends. I miss you all! You'll be in each and every a sante (cheers) from Benin!

On another note, I had some requests for a little Beninoise history. So no lecture, but it's so important to help understand some distinct differences between the Beninoise and Americans. Late 1800s, France colonized Dahomey (the original name of Benin; capital being in Abomey where the main ethnic group, Fon, originate and where my Papa is from: really fun, energetic, aggressive people). After independence in 1960, the government was unstable with political uprisings and military coups. 1972, Mathieu Kerekou (the current president) militarily took over followed by his 17 year communist-gradually-turned-socialist regime. Benin became democratic in 1990 as Kerekou peacefully handed over power to Saglo, who won popular vote. Beninoise are really proud that they have a calm peaceful country (relatively speaking). I always have people talking about those bandits from Nigeria. Kerekou was elected president in 1996 and again in 2001. Unfortunately, I'll miss the next elections by one year.

There is a strong socialistic mindset that remains. Looking around town, it's the people employed by the government or people working for NGOs that have salaries. Everyone else is subject to weather and transportation (infrastructure issues, gas prices) as most economic activity is agriculture and regional trade. People expect the government to do just about everything for them. The man working the cybercafe in Azove just waits around for the government to fix the phone lines (which is just the deteriorating infrastructure left over from the French) so he can host the internet. Until then, he gives courses on mainly word and excel. Papa can't believe that right now I'm working for the government and when I get back to the states, its not the government who's going to place me in a nice, cushy job; but rather, I alone need to search for work.

There is also a somber knowledge that Benin is among the poorest nations in the world with an average annual income of just over $1000. Most political talk is geered towards development. Benin is crowded with NGOs, sociology majors, and yes, Peace Corps Volunteers (theres over 100 of us and Benin is the size of Pennsylvania.) Gotta love all the good hearted souls. NGOs are the organizations that get their funding from outside sources (ie: World Bank, relief organizations abroad, etc.) and have specific goals/projects in order to get the funding. So they exist to do a lot of the same things that Peace Corps Volunteers do: in the sectors of health, environment, business and education. They teach village women about how to keep their children healthy through correct nutrition and cleanliness. They encourage vaccinations. They talk about the importance of planting trees when you cut them down. They build wells. They give lectures on how to better manage a business. They offer savings and credit plans. They aid young girls in getting to school and give out scholarships. So there¡¦s a lot of hanging out and talking to people about important things (aka: my job, the business part, that is.) but without the means to do much about it. I'm thinking it's the talking that's holding them back. There's a lot of talk and a lot of formalities, but not a lot gets initiated or implemented. The funding is there for the good hearted souls looking for work, but I don't see the World Bank funding a personal business because it could increase Beninese exports and land the money is someone's personal bank account. Do you? But here's the kicker: that's exactly what they need. To be able to provide the diversity of food necessary for a healthy diet, to get the franc moving and into more people's hands so their boys and girls can get educated, so they can privatize what the government does not have the capacity for. Good intentions with questionable results.

If any of you have experienced development work, I'd be fun to email about it. (Mel, forward this to the Wright's friend in Utah?)

As for westernization, as cities become more developed, they also become more western in terms of culture. The technology is gradually being imported, clothes are a fad that no one can really afford, French is prevalent only in larger cities. Yet all while holding on decently well to oral tradition and history. Theres no better way to describe the current mindset towards the west: I don't like you, but I have to because I have become dependent upon you; just don't come near me or personally involve yourself with me. Actually this is the mindset towards France. (Attitudes definatley change when people find out that I am American and even more so when I say I am with the Peace Corps.) The past hurts. I think you'll all agree when I say America can relate in many ways.

Enough of that!! Here are my shout-outs that I wrote before Thanksgiving, but haven't had a chance to send out with no internet and all:

Love you all!! Please take care and enjoy yourselves over the holidays. Always, Sara

November 22, 2003

Happy Thanksgiving tout le monde! How do you start off such a season without first talking about all of the things I'm thankful for: first being the 29 (almost) years Roice has been here, living, surviving, and contributing to my life more than I can put into words. Happy birthday, mon grand frere. I adore you. Dad, your sincere concerns. Mom, Bernadette: need I say more?!

Gaylon: your kick and push, ambition and desire to be out there, discovering life and people; can't wait to see you here in Africa! Congratulations on your invitation!

Aim: When's it gonna be? Are my emails making you want to come more or less? Let's convince our third-some that she needs to save up too and we can track through Benin together!

Ben&Sarah: Wonderful letters! Keep em coming!!

Greg: Sweetheart; What do you want to cook up for Thanksgiving? I'll be by early afternoon so we can get started? Mmmm!

Carrie: Voodoo isn't quite what you'd expect, but hell, you could just come here and check it out for yourself, right?! Pretty please!

Gabe: Iraq? The papers got mixed up! Seriously. I'm stunned and need more. I know I was praying to get you closer, but this really wasn't what I bargained for. Talk to me, and send me your damn address. I can't stand not writing you!

Paul & Kate: crawls, tumbles, and all. I can't let go of watching. Paul jump around, dancing at the bus stop as innocent bystanders remain confused for all eternity. I'm glad I'm not figuring out the puzzle. I love being close to you, and getting to laugh out loud instead.

Matt: Cali boy! I really see you thriving there. I'm happy you picked up and started something like this. Keep pushin through. The semesters almost over! Ahh, you're living in semesters again. HA!

The Polans: How big? Measure again! Ahhhh, I'm going to begin measuring time by Chance's height!

Chen: Jealousy settles in, damn star trek, being able to telecommute, read minds, beam me up - anything to be able to exchange half of what we are thinking as this exact moment! There's so much, its hard to begin. I know you are doing wonderful. Keep it comin'. Send your address again, my mom had a letter bounce back from before I left, gotten my other letter?

Mel: My sweetest Cherie.

Sarah: the difficulty is mounting and the temptation to chop the hair prevailing, but I'm holding on oh, and scream definitely got my vote much to late, but my vote's gotta have some weight. And what about leaving time for the absentee ballots?!

Kyle, Nick & Mandy: Connecticut, Texas, Benin. Same difference. Where do y'all want to meet for New Year's?

Mary: New town, new home, and new life. It's so wild! We're practically together in all the change. Oh, except for all that marriage stuff.

Cara & Lindsay: Jobs? News? Boys? Keep me updated!!

Jennifer: My saving grace! I imagine our porch-time as I settle into thoughts of my future home. Oh! I'd give anything for you to be there helping me to create atmosphere. The definition of home doesn't exist without Miss Jennifer Rose!

H: just tell me when the rest is settled free and even better-than-hostels all the way to Mauritania - gotta love PC connections en Afrique de l'Ouest.

Subject: PS

Check it out: www.walden3d.com/dialog/saraellyn

My dad set up this website so if you just feel like dropping a line or two, you can post messages, find out my address, etc. I will eventually be putting my pictures up here, though that hasn't happened just yet. If you are interested more in Benin, there are also links to a map of Benin, history, and facts...

Enjoy! Love y'all! S.